The divine dance of North Kerala, Theyyam : An Experience

It is the season of Theyyam performances in Kerala. Many of the temples in North Kerala, especially in Kozhikode, Kannur and Kasaragod districts, conduct yearly theyyam performances for the well-being and prosperity of the land and people. Theyyams are the representation of deities which appear in colourful costumes and make ups. This ritual art form is usually performed by specified communities like Mannan, Vannan, Malayan, etc in the area. This year I got a chance to witness a Theyyam festival in two – three temples. When I contacted Dist. Tourism Promotion council (DTPC), Kannur, they suggested, Mr Prakash Manhapra (prakash.manhapra@gmail.com), who is also a Theyyam consultant for Kerala Tourism.

Thottam at Cherkunnu Vadakkdathu Temple

 

The temple is of the carpenter community of Cherukunnu; and so it is also called Aasari kottam (aasari in Malayalam means carpenter). The temple is with a main sanctorum for the Goddesses and some dedicated places for other deities. Usually, as in any Theyyam festival, the ceremonial start was by bringing a Lighted traditional oil lamp. Before the actual performance of Theyyam, some preliminary performances like Thottam or Vellattam is also held for each Theyyam character. I reached in this temple by evening and it was the time to start the Thottam songs of the main Goddesses Olimakal and Kilimakal. The performers appeared in ceremonial costumes and sung the folk song praising the Goddesses and narrating their story. In the makeup room another performer was getting ready for his turn for the Vellattam performance of Dharma Daivam. Seeing all these, I left the temple, heading for another temple in the nearby area.

Kandakarnan Theyyam at Chimminiyan Kavu

 

Chimminiyan Kavu is located at Thazhe Chovva, on the outskirts of Kannur town. After a short sleep, I started around 3 o’clock in the morning, to watch Kandakarnan Theyyam, one of the ferocious Theyyams having mounted big fire torches on his hip. When we reach there, the temple was not crowded, but as the time goes we could see that people from far and near, including many foreign tourists were rushing to the temple. Photographers carrying their huge cameras were looking for a suitable place to capture the frames.

After an hour the performer appeared in front of the temple as a terrifying figure with wooden mask covering their body mainly with the tender leaves of coconut tree. Getting the blessings from their community heads, the temple heads and the priests, he sat on a wooden seat for completing the figure of the God Kandakarnan. According to the story, the God is evolved from Lord Shiva, in a fire like form to eradicate the epidemic small pox that affected Lord Shiva. Many other from the same community gathered there and some of them started singing the holy songs to evoke the God in him. Simultaneously, others were tied up the long sticks of oil-sucked pantham (fire torches - 8 sticks with 16 fire heads). Another man came with a very long (12ft plus) head gear decorated with tender leaves of the coconut tree and mounted on his head. While the singing and drumming were going on, the priest stared lighting up every fire torches. Now the full figure of Kandakarnan Theyyam is ready for performance. In slow rhythms Theyyam started moving. Two or three youngsters kept on pouring coconut oil to maintain the fire. The devotees started chanting holy mantras loudly. All the electric lights were switched off. Then it felt as the God was in front of us. A world of illusion. After encircling the temple three times, the performer himself lit off and removed all the fire by shaking himself. The long headed gear was removed and after a performance on the high beats of the drums, the Theyyam (God) was ready to bless the devotees personally. By the time the sun rose at the horizon and we left the venue. While travelling back I heard the slow rhythms of drumming which might be from another temple where the divine dance of another deity must be performing.

The writer

The writer who is not interested to disclose himself recommended and shared the contacts of Mr Prakash Manhapra who guided him throughout the festivals.